Canon 70D DSLR Review

Pros: Fast autofocus and tracking in video and live view; Easy one-handed operation for essential settings; Wi-Fi equipped for photo transfers, remote control; Very sharp images and accurate color

Cons: Tedious wireless and white balance controls; Somewhat bulky

Verdict : Canon's EOS 70D is a versatile rig ideal for action photography and sharp video thanks to new autofocus technology.


Canon's EOS line is one of the most versatile in the industry, ranging from novice to pro models. The 20.2-megapixel 70D (MSRP: $1,199, body only, $1,349 with 18-55mm lens) targets video buffs with its new autofocus technology that lets you keep moving subjects in focus when recording clips. It also produces smoother, more natural-looking video than most DSLRs. With a 19-point autofocus system in SLR (standard shooting) mode, Canon's new dual-pixel AF system for video, and a shooting speed of up to 7 frames per second, the 70D is great for capturing life's fleeting moments at high quality. 


Design

Canon fans will find the EOS 70D familiar. With a rubberized grip on the right side and a host of dials and buttons atop the grip and to the right of the screen, the 70D's body was built for one-handed performance (if you are right-handed).

 
The 3-inch LCD flips out to the left and swivels so you can get a clear preview of your subject at odd angles. You can also swipe through pictures or menus and tap to adjust settings, thanks to the responsive touch screen. The intelligent viewfinder, as Canon calls it, displays key settings such as shutter speed at the bottom of your field of view.

The 70D has the standard, basic assortment of inputs and outputs: USB, HDMI and audio-in/ mic ports and an SD/SDHC/SDXC memory card slot.

Weighing 1.48 pounds (body only), the 70D when coupled with the relatively light kit lens was manageable. With one of Canon's better prime (non-zooming) lenses, such as the 1.27-pound 35mm (f1.4) we used for testing, lugging the camera was a burden. That said, it's about the same weight as an equivalent setup from Nikon.


Controls

You'll be able to tweak top priority settings such as aperture, ISO and shutter speed easily with one hand, thanks to the 17 buttons, three dials and two switches on the 70D. A monochrome LCD readout on top of the handgrip gives you a quick overview of key settings, as on many Nikon builds, such as the D7100.

The 70D has three dials -- a Mode Dial (Program, Aperture Priority, Manual, etc.) on the top left side with a lock button in the middle, a Main Dial on the right behind the shutter button, and a Quick Control wheel to the right of LCD screen. You'll primarily use the Main Dial on top to adjust settings such as shutter speed, ISO and aperture.

For other camera options such as image capture format, date and time, and device modes such as Wi-Fi on/off, you have to use the touch screen.

Selecting a preset white balance such as Auto, Daylight or Shade is easy, but setting a custom white balance (which fine-tunes color for difficult lighting situations) is a tedious process. You'll first have to set your white balance to Custom on the touch screen, then press the Menu button near the top-left corner of the screen, and scroll to the third panel, then scroll down four items to "Custom White Balance," and finally snap a picture of your white reference object.



 

Image Quality

The EOS 70D boasts great picture clarity and color. We took it out for tests with a trio of lenses -- the 18-55mm kit lens, a 35mm L series f/1.4 prime and a 50mm f/1.2 L series prime. A 35mm lens is our standard for testing cameras with the APS-C size sensor found in mainstream DSLRs, including the 70D, so we used it for the bulk of our shooting. We used Pattern Metering (aka Matrix Metering), which determines exposure based on the overall scene.

Bright light results

We selected an aperture of f/9 in Aperture Priority (AV) mode, and the camera adjusted shutter speed accordingly. We noticed that the camera tended to slightly underexpose images. Apples we photographed at a farmers' market came out deep red, when in reality they were a paler shade, and some detail got lost in the shadow.

Adjusting the camera's exposure compensation control to 2/3 of an f-stop brighter resulted in more accurate images and is a good rule of thumb when shooting with this camera. If you know you will be processing images from RAW data files, however, the underexposure could be helpful, as it's easier to brighten dark areas than to recover detail if the lighter portions of images are too exposed

Low light results

Autofocus, speed and battery

In traditional SLR mode (with the mirror down) the 70D's 19-point phase-detection AF system quickly latched onto subjects in most situations. It shifted focus from a co-worker in the park to a building in the background within a fraction of a second.

The 70D wowed us with its speed and clarity in action shots. In pictures from a Central Park baseball field, a ball spinning in midair appeared sharp at 1/1250 second shutter speed, with the stitching clearly visible when we zoomed in 100 percent.

People jumping on a field were captured clearly in midair even on a cloudy day. The camera focused quickly so we were able to keep grabbing shots, and the 70D's 7-frame-per second shooting speed (fairly fast for a DSLR) kept up with the action.

Wireless

The 70D's built-in Wi-Fi and Canon's EOS Remote app (for Android and iOS devices) allow you to transfer photos to a smartphone or control the camera remotely, using the phone's screen as a live viewfinder.

Turning on Wi-Fi was unusually complex. We had to scroll to the fourth device settings tab on the LCD menu and go down to the fifth row just to enable Wi-Fi (some cameras provide a single physical button for this purpose). From there, we had to go into Wi-Fi Function (sixth row in the same settings tab) to set up the camera's wireless utility. We also found the app setup tedious and confusing, having to refer to an online guide to determine what option to use.

Once set up, the app let us view pictures stored on the 70D and remotely operate the viewfinder. We could tweak ISO, aperture and exposure levels and see the battery level and number of shots left. The Camera Image Viewing tool provides thumbnails of the pictures on your camera, complete with metadata such as aperture, ISO or metering mode used. From the smartphone app, you can select photos to copy to your phone, email, star as significant or delete.

The 70D's Wi-Fi function also lets you control the camera from your PC, wirelessly upload pictures or even transfer files between cameras. When Wi-Fi is engaged, the 70D can't shoot video or use its USB connections.


Kit lens

Canon and other retailers commonly offer the EOS 70D as the body only or in kits with either an 18-135mm or 18-55mm zoom lens. We received the latter kit with the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM Zoom Macro, which performed ably. While you don't get as shallow a depth of field on the kit lens as on primes, the photos we took with the kit lens still offered great clarity.

Canon's STM (or Stepper Motor) series of lenses feature focus motors and an iris mechanism designed to reduce noise during video recording.




Lenses and accessories

Compatible with about 100 EF and EF-S Canon lenses, the EOS 70D offers plenty of expansion options at a range of prices. On the extreme budget end is the EF 50mm f/1.8 II telephoto lens, which sells for as little as $125 and produces surprisingly sharp images for that price.

At the high end are lenses in Canon's L series, such as the $1,479 35mm f/1.4L USM prime (nonzooming) lens we used for testing. Close-up shots of rutabagas and apples at the farmer's market showed a high level of detail, down to scratches and individual fibers. Canon's $1,600 EF 50mm f/1.2 also produced tack-sharp images. We use such high-performance lenses to assess the ultimate capabilities of the camera, and the 70D keeps up with Canon's best glass.

The 70D is also compatible with plenty of third-party lenses such as prime, zoom and wide-angle models by Sigma, Zeiss and Tamron.
 
You'll also find a slew of accessories, including Canon's Speedlight flash line, a $229 battery grip to offer improved power and ergonomics, an Angle Finder that attaches to the viewfinder for framing low angle shots, and an assortment of cases, straps and chargers at a variety of prices.

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Want to be a Professional Photographer?

Professional photography is an excellent career choice for anyone who wants to get paid for using their creative talents. It's one of the few fields where age and college degrees aren't as important as a good eye, a quality product, and self discipline. Photography is a competitive field, however; so be prepared to start small, while you perfect your craft and build a portfolio of your best work. The tips below should help get you started.


Part 1 of 2: Focusing on Your Photography

1 Know your gear. A major misconception about professional photographers is that you must have a fancy camera body or multiple lenses in order to be successful. While having a great camera certainly does improve your business, being a successful photographer has more to do with knowing the ins and outs of camera basics. Before considering photography as a business, you need to know your camera and gear like the back of your hand.
 

• Start off with a basic camera before jumping into buying a camera ranging in the thousands of dollars. A good photographer can take photos with a lower-end camera model, so get comfortable with a basic body first. As you begin to understand the camera and lenses, then look into purchasing new additions. If you do want to dabble with expensive gear, most major cities have businesses that will rent professional gear for the day.
• Read books, magazines, and online articles for the most up-to-date information on camera settings and tips and tricks. These will help to teach you new ways to use your camera and lenses to create great photos.
• Make sure you are knowledgeable in how to use your other camera gear, such as a remote flash or different lenses. Having a background in these will significantly improve your photos.

 
2 Build your portfolio. In order to get hired by someone who isn’t a close family member or friend, you will need to have a portfolio built up to show off your best work. Use photographs from multiple shoots with different subject matter to show the range of your talents. Make sure that your portfolio is comprised of more than just five or ten photos; people will want to see the great work you’ve done.
 

• Take photos every day to hone your skills and provide a wide range of images to choose for your portfolio. These photos don’t have to be of planned photo shoots; they can be from scenes in everyday life.
• Hire beginning models for free from local agencies in exchange for free prints to use for your portraits. This gives you the opportunity to pose someone however you would like without having to pay them.

3 Decide on your forte. If you love doing portraits, then advertise yourself as a portrait photographer. If weddings are your favorite, then get the word out that you are a wedding photographer. Find your area of expertise and use it to your advantage in your business.
 

• Try multiple areas of photography before settling on one as your favorite, and don’t exclude any business opportunities simply because they aren’t in your realm of expertise.
• If you are incredibly opposed to a certain type of shoot - for example, many photographers refuse to do weddings because of the high stress levels involved - don’t feel forced into it because it represents a business opportunity. Only do photography that you enjoy and feel comfortable with; you will begin to dislike your business otherwise.

 
Part 2 of 2: Managing Your Business

1 Get your documents in line. Before you can begin working as a professional photographer, you need to get your business license and start making yourself a business(wo)man. Research your state/county’s requirements for a business license and the documents you need to have in order to call yourself a professional, legally.
 

• Look into speaking with a small business attorney for a better idea of the specific things you need.
• If you plan on doing photography solely, make sure you have insurance covering your business. This may include equipment and health insurance for you and your things.  

2 Start managing your money. You’re setting up your own business, which means you need to get money-savvy quick. Set up a separate bank account, create a ledger to balance your finances, and get yourself a calculator. Every week, you should update your ledger with all monetary exchanges you made throughout the last seven days.[3]
 

• Before you quit your day job to do professional photography, make sure that you have enough money saved away to pay for at least one entire year’s worth of expenses. This way, should your business fall through, you have enough money to live on until you get another job. 
• Have some extra money set aside solely for your business in case of emergency. This pays for broken gear or a last-minute second shooter you have to hire for a big photo shoot.

3 Make your goals. You know you want to make a career out of your love of photography, but you need to set some boundaries first. Consider a time frame in which you would like to have earned a certain sum, had a total number of shoots, or sold a certain number of prints. This will keep you on track and give you a quantifiable goal to reach.
 

• Set dates with your goals rather than just a general time frame and mark these on your calendar. Instead of stating “my goal is to have 20 shoots in two months,” state “my goal is to have 20 shoots scheduled by August 31.” 
• Set a date that you must have earned a total amount from your business by. Then, if you reach this date without having reached your goal, you can reconsider the course of your business. For example, state that you must make $50,000 by the end of two years in order for you to continue photographing for business.

 
4 Set up a schedule. Photographing professionally is a job best done on the side, but can be a stand-alone career. Before you quit your day job though, consider your ideal schedule and the amount of time you need for a single shoot.
 

• Remember that one photo shoot includes drive time, photography time, editing time, meeting time, et cetera. Therefore, it is more than just a “1 hour shoot.”
• Do you plan to only work weeknights and weekends? Do you have any times that are off limits? What would your schedule be if this was your only job?

5 Create a contract. Before you agree to go into any photo shoot with someone, make sure that you have a business contract that they must sign. This should include everything that their money is paying for and the things you are and are not liable for.
 

• Have an attorney write a contract for you if you want to take the safest path. This will make things easier in the long run, and also helps lighten your workload. Joining a photography group also often gives you the opportunity to use a pre-written contract available for group members.
• Clarify what it is that your photography package includes as well as what you are not responsible for. For example, make clear if you hold liability for photos that are accidentally and irrevocably deleted, or if after signing the contract it is no longer a problem of yours.

6 Decide on your rates. Consider the amount of time required for each shoot, the cost of your gear, and the cost of the prints/CD you make with your images as the end product. These should all help determine the hourly or per-session rates you charge.
 

• Look up other local photographers and see what they charge for their own businesses. Then, base your own pricing based off your skills and abilities in comparison to theirs.
• Avoid pricing your photography sessions too high or too low. A price that is too high will scare away most clients, while setting a price very low makes you seem desperate or unattractive as a photographer.

7 Advertise your business. The most important aspect of becoming a successful professional is advertising your business. Create a website, make business cards, network with locals, and talk about your photography business with everyone you meet. People will hire a photographer that has been recommended to them, that they have heard of before, and that has a great personality; make sure that you have all three.
 

• For example, if you do a photo shoot for a wedding, take photos of the food and give them to the caterers. They will likely use these photos as advertisements themselves, and will recommend you as the photographer who took them.
• Create a watermark to protect your photos so that you can advertise them online. Allow your clients to use your watermarked photos for their own social media sites, essentially doing your advertising for you.
• If you have a website for your business, make sure that your search engine optimization (SEO) is high so that your business rises to search engine queries matching your tags.
• Always keep business cards and sample photos on hand to give out or show off to anyone you may encounter. Riding on the bus, standing in line at the store, or sharing a table at a coffee shop are all great platforms for you to advertise your business. 
• Utilize social media to make a name for yourself. Instagram especially is a great way to post images a lot of people can see.

Tips

• The secret to being a successful photographer and not lose the passion for the craft is to constantly work on personal projects. Make the time to shoot what you love for yourself and your passion will grow by trying various digital photography techniques. At the same time your confidence as a professional will also grow. This is true for any hobby that becomes a business.
• Invest in good photo editing programs for your computer. Although most of the "editing" should be done in the manual mode on your camera before you take the pictures, having the ability to make quick touch-ups and adjustments to your photos is very valuable.
• Be aware that if you are being paid to take photos of others, you will be expected to meet your client's desires for the photographs rather than your own artistic preferences. As the saying goes, "the customer is always right."
• Don't be afraid to use your photo camera or a point-and-shoot to take photos in your free time. Taking photos on a daily basis is ideal, but can't always be done with a hefty camera and busy schedule.
• Always start your business slowly, and don't expect it to grow incredibly fast.
• If you want to be a landscape photographer try to have two good cameras: one for planned photography and one to carry around and think "that's nice - lets take a pic' it will make life easier.
• If you purchase gear, keep track of it since it might qualify as a tax write-off.

Warnings

Never delete a photo until you've tried to fix it using a program such as Photoshop. You never know how good a picture can turn out unless you fix minor imperfections, so don't delete it too soon. Look at different angles and perspective before you decide to trash a photo.

 Source: wikiHow

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Nikon D3300 DSLR Review

Pros: Small for a DSLR; Retracting lens makes camera compact; Sharp, clear images with accurate color; Video has smooth movement; Great price

Cons: No tilting LCD screen; Limited shooting controls, such as noise reduction options; More noise (graininess) than many rivals capture in low-light stills and video

Verdict : The Nikon D3300 is an excellent entry-level camera for aspiring photographers, delivering a good feature set and high-quality images.

If you are considering an upgrade from a point-and-shoot, the Nikon D3300 is one heck of a DSLR for newbies. It succeeds the very popular D3200 with a few upgrades, such as better video capabilities. The D3300 lacks the bells and whistles of its more expensive cousins, such as Nikon’s own D5300 ($800), but it takes sharp, clean 24.3-megapixel images and smooth, natural-looking video. Priced at $649 for the kit with an 18-55mm lens, the D3300 competes directly with value-priced DSLRs like the $549 Canon T5 and with midrange mirrorless cameras like the $499 Olympus PEN E-PL5. And it stacks up very nicely.

Design 

On the back of the body is a 3-inch 921k pixel LCD. Images on the screen are clear and fairly bright, but viewability suffers in direct sunlight. This display can't flip out or rotate, so there is no selfie shooting or ability to hold the camera above or below to get a challenging shot. The D3300 shares this lack of a rotating screen with the Canon Digital Rebel T5, but the Olympus PEN E-PL5 and some other competing mirrorless cameras have tilting LCDs. As a DSLR, the D3300 has an optical viewfinder, in this case a bright model that includes a minimal LCD at the bottom of the frame to display basic settings info.

In addition to a small built-in pop-up flash, the D3300 offers a standard hot shoe, which means it can work with flash units from Nikon and other manufacturers.


 
Controls

Buttons are strewn around the D3300's LCD like teenagers at a pool party, but with a better sense of order. The four on the left side of the screen are for viewing and zooming into captured images and accessing the on-screen menu. The five buttons on the right, along with the adjacent four-way directional pad, control the shooting settings and live view mode (more on that later).

Atop the right handgrip, three buttons (movie capture, info and exposure compensation) are grouped around the shutter button, which makes it easy to quickly tweak exposure or switch between capturing stills and video. This design is an instructive example for other camera makers that bury the video-record button in hard-to-reach spots. 

Most of the frequently used controls fall comfortably under the fingertips for one-handed shooting: your thumb can easily reach the control dial on the camera back while shooting with your eye next to the viewfinder. This makes it easy to control the aperture in aperture priority mode, but it doesn't give you the control over both shutter and aperture that dual dials offer (as on the Nikon D5300).

Next to the dial is the AE lock button, so you can lock in an exposure setting in a complex lighting situation without having to take your eye off the subject. Unlike its more expensive cousin, the D5300, the D3300 does not offer any customizable buttons or dials, and there is no way to reprogram the functions of the buttons on the camera body.

Like all DSLRs, the D3300 uses a mirror to bounce the light from the lens up into the optical viewfinder while you are framing a shot, and then flips the mirror out of the way while taking the image. A live view mode is also available. When you press the LV button on the right side of the camera back, the mirror flips up, and a preview image appears on the LCD. This preview looks great in good light, but gets rather dull and grainy in low light. That's a common problem with live view modes on all DSLRs and mirrorless cameras, however. 


 
Image Quality

Overall, the D3300 snapped high-quality images using its 24.3-megapixel sensor, with strong detail and accurate color in bright light but noticeable noise (graininess) by low light at high ISO (sensitivity) settings. Although the resolution of the D3300 is unchanged from its predecessor (the D3200), Nikon has tweaked the sensor by removing the optical low-pass filter (OLPF), which softens the image slightly to make sharp edges look more natural. We didn't see a lot of difference between the two models, though: both models produced very sharp images with a fine level of detail.

To get comparable results, we test all mainstream DSLRs and mirrorless cameras —those with a so-called APS-C-size sensor — using a prime (non-zooming) lens of roughly a 32 mm focal length, which is equivalent to a 50mm on a full frame camera. In this case, we chose Nikon's 35mm f/1.8G, which sells for $196. We also spot-checked against Nikon's 18-55mm Zoom Lens, which you can purchase with the D3300. The 35mm-prime is slightly sharper than the kit lens, meaning you won't see all the camera is capable of with the packaged lens

Daylight results
The D3300 did an admirable job shooting in bright light, capturing both the highlights and shadow details of a scene. We found that the images were accurately exposed in most of our test shots in daylight when using the program mode of the camera.

 
The D3300 captures very detailed images. In a photo of a historic home shot with the kit lens, we could zoom in to see the date on the plaque and almost read the gas meter at the corner of the house. The kit lens does introduce some distortion, though. The window frames appeared slightly curved, due to a lens effect called barrel distortion that is common with entry-level zooms. The D3300 does try to remove this effect by processing the captured image when it is saved, but it didn’t quite get it in this shot.

Colors appeared very rich. In a photo of a crochet piece, for example, the hues of the different yarn appear very similar to how they did in real life: subtle colors that were muted by repeated exposure to the sun.

Low-light results 

The D3300 performed well in dim settings, capturing a fair amount of light.  We first took a hand-held, low-light shot of the memorial transept at Harvard in auto mode. In this shot, the camera upped the ISO (light sensitivity) to 6400 to keep the shutter speed fast to avoid blur. The image exhibited a fair level of detail, but closeexamination showed some noise (graininess) in the wood paneling and shadows. But that's to be expected at such a relatively high ISO. 

A shot of a memorial plaque in the same transept in low light shows the same issue. The edges of the names are not sharp, because the noise has softened the details somewhat.

The noise level of the image increases as the ISO level goes up. Noise reduction removes much of the noise, but also a lot of the fine detail.

We didn't see much noise in our analysis of the captured JPEG images at lower ISOs, but some started creeping into images at ISO settings above 1600. This noise became more pronounced when we took photos in low light, which needed higher ISO settings of 3200 and above, although the camera's built-in noise-reduction (NR) feature did ameliorate the graininess somewhat.

This did have a cost, however. The noise reduction also removed some fine details in the images. It is possible to strike a better balance between noise reduction and detail using RAW images and a program such as Photoshop that allows you to apply more finesse to the noise-reduction process.

Although the camera technically supports an astronomical ISO of 25600, we'd advise not shooting above ISO 3200 for a large image if you can avoid it. If you are printing smaller images or posting them to Facebook, the noise and noise-reduction effects are tolerable up to ISO 6400.

Most cameras allow you to set different levels of noise reduction, to find an adequate balance between the amount of noise and the loss of detail that noise- reduction entails. The D3300 offers a binary On/Off option for noise reduction, though, without in-between levels. Also missing is long-exposure noise reduction, in which the camera tries to remove noise in longer exposures by capturing a dark frame (one with the shutter closed, so all it contains is the noise) and subtracting it from the image.

Autofocus and speed

The D3300 is a quick camera to focus: shooting through the viewfinder, we found that the small 18-55mm zoom lens snapped into focus quickly using any of the 11 focus points. In a candid shot of a cuddling kitten, we got the photo quickly without disturbing the (semi-)wildlife: When we were shooting through the viewfinder, the camera focused and took the shot before the subject could wake up and attack.

Focusing speed is largely about the lens. Autofocus with the 35mm prime lens that we also used was significantly quicker. However, the kit lens was fast enough to capture most subjects in our tests.

In live view mode, the D3300's focus was a lot less impressive. The point-and-shoot-style contrast detection focusing system used in live view created a slow, to-and-fro searching motion of the lens, especially in low light. Some more-expensive DSLRs and mirrorless cameras are incorporating faster phase-detection focus sensors into the imaging chip, but the D3300 isn't one of them.

The D3300 is a speedy shooter. We found that it was capable of capturing the 5 frames a second that Nikon claims when shooting in the Fine JPEG mode with a fast 32GB SanDisk Ultra UHC-1 SDXC card. With this card, we were able to shoot an impressive 17 photos before the camera had to slow down for the images to be stored. 

Kit lens

The kit lens that Nikon bundles with the D3300 is an 18-55mm, f3.5-5.6 zoom with built in VR (vibration reduction), Nikon’s own moniker for image stabilization. This slightly unusual lens has a lock button on the zoom ring; when you press the button, the barrel of the lens retracts from 3.5 inches long down to 2.5 inches for easier handling and storage. When you want to start shooting, you push the button and twist the zoom ring to expand the lens.

While that keeps the lens as small as possible, it is a problem for candid photography: unlocking the lens takes time and looks fairly obvious if you are trying to shoot unobtrusively. This mechanism also means that you start off at the wide-angle (18mm) setting every time you unlock the lens. The hassle factor here is fairly minor, though.

Image quality was generally good, though details come out softer than they would when using a sharper lens, such as the 35mm f/1.8G we also used in testing. In addition, the lens produced some geometric distortion at the wide end, but that's to be expected on a low-cost lens. Fortunately, the camera's processing software helps to ameliorate the distortion.
 

Lenses and accessories

The F mount that the D3300 uses provides access to a huge selection of lenses, from ultra-wide angles to very long telephotos. There are hundreds of compatible lenses on offer, from both Nikon and other manufacturers, such as Sigma, that range from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. Some older lenses aren't fully supported, though. Lenses in the AF-S and AF-I families work with all features of the D3300. Others may offer only manual focus or not allow the light-metering features of the camera to be used.

The lens selection is one of the factors that make the D3300 such a good starter DSLR. Many lenses you buy for this camera will work with higher-end Nikons you may upgrade to in the future.

The D3300 offers a standard hot shoe, so it is compatible with a range of flash devices from Nikon and other manufacturers. A microphone jack on the left side of the camera body allows you to connect an external microphone. But no "phantom power" is offered, which means some professional microphones that require additional power input won't work. This is not unusual for a DSLR, and in fact the inclusion of a mic jack is a bonus for a camera in this price range.

Bottom Line 

The fact that you can buy a 24.3-megapixel DSLR (with a decent lens) for $650 shows how competitive the digital camera market has gotten recently. The Nikon D3300 is an excellent entry-level DSLR camera for aspiring photographers, delivering a good feature set and high-quality images.​

 

Specs table


Nikon D3300
 
24.2 effective Megapixels
DSLR

$649 (with 18-50mm lens)
 
5 fps burst mode
 
Nikon DX (APS-C) CMOS Sensor
 
18-50mm f3.5-5.6 kit lens
11 Contrast detection AF Points
 
Shutter speed 30 to 1/4000 second
 
ISO 100- 25600
 
Video resolution 1080p, 720p, VGA at 60 and 30fps
 
Built-in flash
 
Standard hot shoe
SDXC Card slot
Mic, HDMI, miniUSB

Optical lens image stabilization (VR) in kit lens
4.9 by 3.9 by 3 inches
1 lb. 2.7 oz.

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